Hand sewing basics: Construction stitches

There are various ways of classifying stitches - I like to think of stitches based on their purpose:

Construction: making seams and attaching fabrics to one another

Finishing: making hems and closing gaps

Decorative: using stitches for visual effect, i.e. embroidery.

The stitches below are all construction stitches and I will explain finishing stitches in a separate post.

Before you start stitching, familiarise yourself with the different types of knot.

You will need the following hand sewing stitches time and time again when sewing small projects by hand.

Have you got the right tools in your sewing kit?

Before you get started, download this checklist for your sewing kit which includes a useful guide on different types of thread and hand sewing needles.

Types of hand sewing stitches: Construction stitches

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Running stitch

1

Thread your needle and make a knot at the end of the thread. Insert the needle on the wrong side of your work. There are two ways of working this stitch: you can bring the tip of the needle up, but instead of pulling it all the way out, you insert it again a few millimetres further along the fabric.

2

You will keep moving the needle like a snake in and out of the water, utilising as much of the length of the needle as possible. Doing this will help you achieve a consistent stitch length.

3

Alternatively you can make one stitch at a time and pull the thread tight after each stitch.

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Whip stitch

1

Work from right to left. If attaching two layers of fabric, pierce the needle through both layers of fabric starting at the back.

2

Having pulled the needle out from the first stitch, pull the thread tight and then bring it over the raw edge to the back of the fabric where you will insert the needle again.

3

Repeat these steps, forming loops over the raw edge of the fabric.

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Backstitch

1

Thread your needle and make a knot at the end of the thread. Insert the needle on the wrong side of your work, or in between layers of fabric, and pull it all the way up to the knot. Insert the needle again at your desired stitch length (1) and make another stitch on the wrong side (2).

2

Bring the needle back to where your last stitch on the right side ended and insert it - this is your first ‘backstitch’ (3). Next, make a double length stitch on the wrong side (4).

From now on, all stitches on the wrong side will be double length stitches.

3

Now keep repeating the last two steps: Bring the needle back to where the last right side stitch ended, insert it and make a longer stitch on the wrong side.